I've heard of people rinsing GFO to get a little more life out of it. There is also a way to recharge it, but I decided against trying that out. Buying cheaper GFO seemed like an easier option. Agree x 1 List. You just need to get an algae scrubber. I can refer you to a guy who makes them but it might be a bit before he gets you one.
Armydog did you get your zeo running yet? Won't some of that stuff take your po4 down? Or do you run both? Like x 2 List. Yeah I just went to the zeo forum and did a little looking around. Just checking out basic stuff. Looks pretty good. How close are you on your alk? Have you thought about doing lanthanum chloride drip? At least to drop the initial high phosphate and then move to gfo? I did that in years past and it worked quite well and once the phosphate was under control gfo lasted a month or two, although some large system just maintain a constant lanthanum drip before fine media.
I also always used to recharge my gfo too. I bought the large size container from BRS and would put exhausted gfo in another container until I was almost out and then recharge a large batch to last me almost a year.
La Porte City, IA. I change mine the first day of every month, that way I never forget. You can try to run some Sea Klear. Make sure you research it and have a plan. It is best added in very small dilutions, and then filtered out mechanically. I read about that hart but idk if I really want to do that. I think my issue was not changing it enough i checked it tonight and its down to.
Reef tank owners can remove phosphates even on very large aquariums without having to pack media reactors to the brim with expensive media. Being the BRS High Capacity media granules are harder and denser compared to competing media, it will have less dust right out of the package making it easier to rinse clean. It is less likely to break down inside your media reactor as it tumbles and it won't compact into a solid block over time like softer GFO media tends to do.
This GFO is available in four different sizes including quarter, half, and one-gallon jars as well as a five-gallon bucket. Since you will need half as much of this GFO as a standard option, the quarter and half-gallon jars will last most standard-sized reef tanks a very long time. The two bigger options are ideal for large tank owners or those with multiple tanks. Before adding GFO to your system, it is crucial to test your phosphate levels and write down the results.
Measure and add the appropriate amount of media for your aquarium and test phosphate levels weekly thereafter. If your levels are within range 0. If phosphates levels are elevated, to begin with, your first batch of media will likely become exhausted within only weeks' time and should be replaced when you notice phosphate levels beginning to rise.
Your second batch of media should then last much longer. The best approach is to simply test your tank on a regular basis, when phosphate levels begin to rise out of range, you know it is time to swap out your GFO. Never let it run longer than 8 weeks and it is better to not run any GFO at all than to allow exhausted media to stay in the tank. Before adding GFO to your system, we recommend thoroughly rinsing it to remove any dust. I replace it when my PO4 gets to about.
I change it out monthly with my carbon maintenance. First water past through the GFO then to the Carbon chamber. Click to expand NJRC Member. There are certain corals people have had for a long time that just become a canary in the coal mine. If you read a lot of the TOTM winners on RC, most of them will say they can just look at their tanks and know a parameter is off. Jim: Just curious, why is the purple Nana the barometer? Something unique that makes it more sensitive?
You must log in or register to reply here. I have a colony of glass and peppermint shrimp too. I went on a business trip and came back to cyano film all over the chaeto and a little of my DT sand bed. Zero phosphates and nitrates. But most of the life in the chaeto is gone. The exception are the large shrimp who look fine. Not sure which is cause or effect? Die off caused cyano or cyano caused die off. Before leaving, I had removed a bag of GAC that I've had in there for too long and had just added a few frags, one of which didn't make it.
I have a GFO that looks mostly the same I want to change it but that's when I realized that I have no measure for this maintenance activity. Cyano is very often something to do with light quality. An expired bulb can cause a mess. I'm still getting mild film algae growth. Though I haven't checked in a couple days.
My chaeto ball has slowed way down too. I used to have to thin it every couple days. I did lose my blues being repaired now.. And changed my sump lighting at the same time! Separate issue but back to GFO.
If I'm reading zero, when do I change the media? No update on this? When do you change GFO media when you're reading zero? If your reading 0 there is no need to change it. I have been running the same GFO for a month now. I reccomend the high capacity stuff. I test for phosphate every week and once I see any signs of a rise I change it out.
I've heard people with a great refugium with lots of Macro algae only replacing gfo every months. I've been replacing mine every Sunday.
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