What makes waves break

That is what wave shoaling tells us. Wavelength is the distance between two crests; or troughs. For example: when a foot wavelength reaches a height of two feet, the wave breaks. Onshore winds do the opposite. They accelerate the breaking process. When the Energy Meets the Ocean Floor Nevertheless, ocean floor topography will critically decide how wave energy will transform into whitewater. The wave breaks, and it usually does so in water depth that is 1.

Plunging waves break when the ocean floor is steep or has sudden depth changes. Surging waves are the result of long period swells. Breaking waves have a deep trough; surging waves do not. Share this article.

Share on Facebook. Share on Twitter. Share on Linkedin. Spilling breakers form on gently sloping or flatter beaches, where the energy of the wave is dissipated gradually. The wave slowly increases in height, then slowly collapses on itself Figure For surfers, these waves provide a longer ride, but they are less exciting. The gentle slope of the bottom causes the wave height to slowly increase until the wave collapses on itself left: JR, right: James St.

John, [CC-BY Plunging breakers form on more steeply-sloped shores, where there is a sudden slowing of the wave and the wave gets higher very quickly. The crest outruns the rest of the wave, curls forwards and breaks with a sudden loss of energy Figure The steeper slope causes the wave height to increase more rapidly, with the crest of the wave outrunning the base of the wave, causing it to curl as it breaks left: JR, right: Andrew Schmidt, Public Domain [CC-0], publicdomainpictures.

Surging breakers form on the steepest shorelines. The wave energy is compressed very suddenly right at the shoreline, and the wave breaks right onto the beach Figure These waves give too short and potentially painful a ride for surfers to enjoy. Wave Refraction Swell can be generated anywhere in the ocean and therefore can arrive at a beach from almost any direction. Wave energy is spread out in bays, causing smaller waves. Dotted lines represent the bottom contours PW.

There's several other articles that should help. This is great, but a small correction. As a wave approaches shallow water and begins to shoal, wave length not period decreases.

Wave period is always conserved. I doubt that that wave period decreases I think you should be saying the wave length decreases. This is because they do indeed slow down. Any comment. By the way great page -- made me think -ta. Longboarders Only. Surf Chat. Surfboard Advice. Surfing Lessons. Register Login. Australasia Pacific. Central America. North America. South America. Check out the full surf spot map, add your spots and contribute! Surf Gear. Surfing Vacations. The Surfboard. Board Bags. Creating Surf 69 comments.

Thanks man, helped a lot with my physics homework "Why do waves break? Great homework help, which is very clear and easy to understand Thanks. Your name:.